Time for some heat, red dust, boabs and desert. Time for the Kimberley, Western Australia.
*Edit*: Heya! Future Mark here. I realised that people may not know where the Kimberley is. So it's roughly here on a map of Australia.
And a bit more zoomed in:
Edits complete!
We crossed the border and had to hand over our "papers", firewood, fruit and veg (turns out they are strict in WA). We also had to turn time back by 2 hours. So, sun up at 5am now π€¬.
Then onto Lake Argyle, a man made lake pretty much in the middle of nowhere. We stayed in the caravan park, and enjoyed the park life for a day, pool, beers, scenic walks.
Did i mention it was an infinity pool?
We also enjoyed a tour of the lake, it started with a bus trip around the base of the dam, looking at the dam wall and getting an understanding of the massive engineering task behind the build. Then out on the water, we saw fresh water crocs, rock wallabies and had a refreshing swim, along with some beers and a feed.
Lake Argyle was a change of scenery from the NT. We were now in a light brown barren mountain/hill range that was a change of pace from the endless savannah.
After Lake Argyle it was a few hours south onto the famous Bungle Bungles (via Kununurra).
What can we say about the Bungle Bungles other than wow! The range is a panorama of black and red striped sandstone domes. The range competes with Uluru for amazing sunset displays of colours and hues.
We went on several hikes that showed off the spectacular landscape. A few even lead into hidden gorges / chasms that seemed like they were out of an Indian Jones movie.
The only negative...... No swimming, which was hard after hiking in 40 degree days. Though understandable as there was actually no fresh water π
After the Bungle Bungles, it was back to what we named our "Boomerang town" Kununurra . Which is beside the Ord River and had been dammed to create Ord lake. We stayed in the caravan park, restocked our food, checked out the Argyle pink diamonds in the local jewellery store and looked at some local aboriginal art. We also did a whiskey, rum and gin tasting at the Hoochery Distillery - the oldest legal distillery in WA.
On the way out of Kununurra we took the adventurous route over the Ivanhoe river crossing. I think the video speaks for itself.
We followed the dirt road on the other side of the crossing to our next stop. A free camp in the salt planes just outside Wyndam.
Wyndam is an old port town that is in the junction of the King River and the mighty Cambridge Gulf. The iconic Five Rivers Lookout provides a panoramic view, where the Pentecost, Durack, King, Forrest, and Ord Rivers converge. Wyndham's Port is the remainder of a rich maritime past, with interesting stories of early pioneers, the pearling and agriculture industry.
The town (and the Kimberleys) is full of boab trees and even features the claimed largest in captivity (on private land)
One interesting experience was a stop at the local bakery which offers a range of pies, including buffalo and crocodile. I give the buffalo 7/10 on my pie scale.
Vast mud flats / salt plans surround the town offer a fun time 4wding and camping. They also contain an airfield! Which we found out! after a 7am wake up plane, when we realised we camped a few 100m from the end of the runway.
We followed a track through the mud flats which lead to the local dam, some Aboriginal art and the solemn boab prison tree.
The track also lead to road we were taking to our next destination.... The notorious, the infamous, the deadly, the not for the faint of heart, okay I'm out of descriptions π, the Old Kurunjie track.
In all seriousness, we were warned that the track was unmaintained, remote, and that a motorcyclist died on it a few years ago.
So with a week's worth of food and water, a sat phone and a PLB we headed off to tackle the track.
The first 20km of the track wasn't too tricky. It was a 4wd track, so lots of washouts / large ruts, but nothing that wasn't able to be crawled over.
Then it was roughly another 20km of dried out mud flat.
Then we were off the mud flats, through some large bull dust sections...... Then disaster!.
Okay, just a flat. Nice tear in the side wall, no no repair possible. One spare tyre later (and some lunch) we were back on the road. P.s we also got attacked by the largest Wirly Wirly (or Willy Willy if you lean that way) I've ever seen. It pickup all the black ash from the fires and looked like a mini tornado.
Then unfortunately the next 20km of track was all on-top of sharp rock. Which was nerve racking as we had used the only spare. (Note the below was not a bad section)
Then that was it! Track finished, with no deaths!! π. We were at our spectacular free camp by the Pentecost River for the night.
From there it was onto El Questro Station for 3 nights. El Questro was a blast! Loads of river crossings (including a deep, carpet wetting one), hikes, gorges, look outs and 4wd tracks. oh and there was also a sneaky trip back to Kununurra to get a new spare tyre.
One of the more arduous hikes was down El Questro Gorge, about 5 hours scrambling over large river boulders, wading through neck deep water, climbing water falls...
Not to mention another snake encounter!, I think it was up to encounter number 5?. It was a rather well timed snake encounter. Claire's fear of heights kicked in, due to having to scale back down a steep waterfall when a snake appeared at the top of the falls! All fears of heights vanished as we scrambled out of there as quick as we could.
Snakes aside we did have the end water hole to ourselves which was a magical experience.
Even driving to the hike was challenging, the brave (or stupid?) could save 3km from the hike by going through the deep water crossing. Which we sure did! And we have it filmed below. We did save the 3km, but did have to spend 3-4 days airing out carpets and putting up with the smell π.
Another great hike / gorge was Emma Gorge. A large plunge pool at the bottom of 65m high waterfall. The hike in was going over boulders again, but not too bad, nothing like El Questro Gorge hike.
(Can you spot me?)
We also got to see some stunning view points at the end of some 4wding tracks. I think the pictures speak for themselves!.
One last thing to top off El Question was nice night eating out at the pub π» with some random travel buddies. The pictures are all blurry for some reason.
After all of that it was on to Ellenbrae Station but first another night at the Pentecost river free camp, then we did the river crossing over the Pentecost (it was very low, barely got the tires wet) and started the famous road of adventure the Gibb River Road.
Gibb River Road, another character all unto itself. A few hundred kilometres of gravel road, with seemingly endless amazing gorges and mostly untouched Savannah bush land (those cattle keep touching everything π). Luckily, also a load of swimming holes! Which was great because it was August and nearing the end of season. Most days were around 38 degrees. The road itself was not too bad, tyre pressures down and not too many issues (except one which is detailed below). We also lucked out that there were two grader teams running while we crossed.
First destination on the Gibb was Ellenbrae Station. An eco camping retreat with amazing scones, swimming holes and even more spectacular baths!
We took the sunset bath experience which came with a bottle of wine and a platter of cheese, meats and fruit. We would highly recommend it.
Our scone rating was 9/10. Only to be beaten by my own scones, according to my wife. However I think she's just being nice to me π. I may have also stolen the recipe.
So after a night at the station we were onto..... Hang on another disaster! Well maybe just an averted one.
I'm pretty sure that part of the trailer suspension is meant to look like:
Yeap! I noticed a fairly crucial bolt missing from the trailer suspension as we were packing up. So we had a talk to the station and lucky us - they had a worker in Kununurra for the day that could collect and deliver the part. We put in an order for the bolt we needed (m16x125mm,8.8). Then booked another night. That afternoon we had a new bolt in had and were all fixed by night time.
Okay next day back on the road to Mt Barnett Roadhouse. We camped at the ample campground around the back of the station. We were up early the next day to hike to the amazing Manning Gorge waterhole.
The first step of the hike required swimming across the Barnett River. Luckily a floating bucket was provided for our gear which made it a lot easier.
Then we followed the trail (which was well marked, but still hard to follow sometimes) to a truly wonderful waterfall/swimming hole.
After a rather lengthy swim and explore around the gorge we hiked back and swam the gear back across the river. Which was were we had another snake encounter! (number ?) Towards the end of the river, I noticed a snake swimming underwater towards me. Luckily it was a shocked as me and swam off.
We also went on a day trip exploring a bit further down the Gibb to Galvins Gorge which was another amazing swimming hole / waterfall / gorge. We decided to drive all the way in, which got a bit 4wd-ish at the end, lots of river bed boulders. Then there was a large tree was down across the road, which the young lads in front decided to move so they could test their new winch. Worked a treat in the end! Who needs road maintenance crews! π
We also visited Adcock Gorge which unfortunately the waterfall had dried up on and the water hole was a little stagnant. Still a glorious spot though.
After all of that.... it was onto our next stop! We packed up, hitched up and we're driving down the Gibb.... Oh no another disaster! I turned left onto the Gibb and drove for an hour or two back down the Gibb!!!... Okay it wasn't actually a disaster and was planned. We had heard such good things about Mt Elizabeth Station that we decided to drive back and give it a go.
Mt Elizabeth Station was loads of fun, we explored all the 4wd tracks, hikes and did some more swimming. Unfortunately we missed out on family style dinner they put on. But we heard it was amazing.
One of the the 4wd tracks lead to another spectacular waterfall/gorge/swimming hole. Which we rated as the best swimming hole of the Gibb, Maybe because we had it to ourselves though. It also had some of the best aboriginal rock art we have seen on our lap so far.
Once again onto the next stop! March Fly Glen free camp. Like the named implies, there were lots of March flies. However, nothing a bit of preparation we couldn't deal with.
From a base camp we went exploring to a few look outs on the gibb.
Then we did a day trip to the breathtaking Bell Gorge (yes yet another gorge π).
There was a short but steep and scrambling hike to the swimming hole that was well worth it.
After all our exploring we needed a resupply. So we decided to head into Derby for a few nights. We weren't finished with the Gibb river Rd yet! First however, Derby!.
Derby is a small port town with big tides! It is embraced by red-earthed landscapes and surrounded by the waters of the King Sound. We had a great time exploring; sculptures, museums, pioneer cemetery and the aboriginal art gallery (we made some purchases).
We also saw the amazing difference in tide at the local jetty. (11 meters from memory).
Then it was time to tackle the Gibb again! This time we stayed in a free camp that used to be a quarry for the RAAF in WW2.
But before that we had a stop off in Tunnel Creek which is a 750m long cave system. It's dark, cold (well not 40 degrees like outside), requires wading through water and a deep swim in total darkness.... Oh there are also fresh water crocodiles in it. So did we do it?? Sure did!
We loved it, though Claire did require I pull her through in the swimming section, which was freezing! We also managed to spot one small (about 1m) fresh water crocodile.
After that experience we spent 2 nights at the RAAF Boab Quarry free camp. There we went swimming (it was only 41 degrees) in the quarry, explored some local caves and did a day trip to Fitzroy Crossing to look at the still broken bridge.
It was also time to put my stolen scone recipe to the test! And I have to say it was an improvement.
ο»ΏAfter a life changing experience, it was time to say farewell to the Gibb River Rd and it was onto a free camp at Willie Creek Perl Farm , about 20km outside of Broome.
We did a tour of the Pearl farm (would highly recommend it) in which we learnt all about Pearl Oyster anatomy, Pearl farming practices and history and how to wear pearls, they now look fabulous on me.
We also checked out some sandy 4wd tracks along the stunning beaches. And did a day trip or two to Broome but more about Broome later!
After that spot, we travelled up the Dampier Peninsula to Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm for a few nights. Another spectacular spot. We did all the usual exploring around the area, more speculator tropical beaches!
From there we did an amazing boat trip out to an ocean waterfall caused by the strong tides. A one of a kind experience. The high tide traps water above a reef, once it starts the lower, the reef gets exposed and the water cascades over it.
The boats were quiet the setup, a few 300hp engines and collapsible land wheels! Which lead to some funny pictures.
The large engines really helped us get around some of the extreme currents from the tides. Which caused some amazing effects in the water, like whirlpools!
After Cygnet Bay it was onto Pender Bay Escapes an amazing cliff side bush camping spot, that was overlooking some even more amazing beaches! The cliffs were a beautiful red contrasted against golden sand.
We also had a dip in a spectacular rock pool that carved into the cliffs. That unfortunately we forgot to get a photo of (ooops!) But we have some of the walk there.
This was one camp site with spectacular night view and we got some nice shots l.
We also gave a new damper recipe a go, which was just a damper with a big old hunk of cheese in it. Unfortunately it probably needed another 10 minutes in the camp oven. But it was still pretty good!
We did a road trip down the road to a small community called Lombadina. Which had some amazing missionary history and spectacular beach. Well worth the $10 entry pass.
Following that it was back down through Broome again and back up to James Price Point & Flat Rock free camp for a few nights. Another stunning red cliff side camp with golden beaches.
We did usual exploring and 4wd tracks, a nice 10km walk down the beach and had an amazing swim in the rock pools.
Last but not least, it was back down to Broome!(Again).
Broome was one of our favourite spots on our lap sor far. We spent a few nights trying to get shots of the "Stairway to the Moon", unfortunately not with total success, but kinda of close.
We checked out the famous Cable beach with its out of world sunsets with camel tours.
Turns out it's also a nudist beach (well the section with the camels is) which a few people take very seriously π.
<Photo censored>
Broome has a vibrant night life, including some amazing restaurants we gave a go. Zoo keepers was a highlight, we got a few tapas style meals like chicken sliders, steamed pork buns. We topped it off with a beer tasting paddle and a cocktail or two.
We did have one food experience worth writing about. We have been on the hunt for some traditional 80s style Chinese takeaway for well... Ever. We found a place in Broome called "Wings" which provided the food, but at such a crazy price we couldn't believe it!. However we did really enjoy it, just not the light wallet afterwards. Claire is even a hard "Yes" to "would you go back to wings". (Maybe only after pay day).
Another experience was a Gin tasting even though we don't link Gin! We didn't convert but we were impressed.
We also had to check out all the Insta-famous spots. There were some rock pools on the out skirts of Broome which unfortunately were a bit to packed for us, so we didn't bother getting in. They were still spectacular to see however.
There was also the single tree insta beach which is actually called Simpson beach π.
And that closes this write up of this section of our journey. Next post the Pilbara! Which will be filled with just as many amazing experiences and as much action as the Kimberley! There's also a back log for the write ups ,of the; Top End, Central Australia & Birdsville, Flinders Ranges, Queensland, Cape York and the East coast. Better get writing π΅βπ«.